Of course Bornholm is not rising up in terms of height, even if some climbers would wish that to do multipitch routes.
At Vang on the west coast (Arne Ohlsen in Roede Kartofler skand. 6, = UIAA 7)
From the sport climbing quarry one goes 100 meters to jump into the sea ... Foto: Björn Olausson
... some skip the bath to keep on climbing on the seacliffs (C. Hupe in Hurtigrouten skandinavisch 8- = UIAA 9-) Foto: Björn Olausson
Still maximum climbing height is 40 meters but concerning the number of routes Bornholm is developing at an astonishing rate!
Picknick on the Edge
We are proud to contribute to this development and it was a lot of fun.
Our basecamp was once again the natur camping site at Allinge to meet up with the danish climbing mates. It is directly side by side with the sport climbing spot Moseloekken.
The campsite is a beautiful place and the firewood is for free. Foto: Björn Olausson
It is also possible to walk to the seacliffs (40 min) or to the bouldering area Ornjebergkysten (35 min) from here. We could not always walk since our time schedule was packed. Everybody will understand that if one sees the rock potential here. There is still so much to explore that it is impossible just to hang around.
Arne Ohlsen in Life of the Quarrymen skand. 7+ = UIAA 8+/9- (Moseloekken).
For new route one has to work as well to clean the entrances of the routes, remove loose rock and so on ...
Peter Haremoes, one of the protagonists of climbing on Bornholm shows us a new spot.
Hard work: cleaning the base of some new routes at Klippeloekken ...
This thing came down as the sword of Damokles.
Finally brushing: ready to climb!
The Danish Klatreforbundt supports the creation of new climbing routes with immense financial effort and helps in this way to improve the touristic infrastructure of the island. Outdoor sports like (mountain) bike and rock climbing attract more and more young people and families to spend holidays on Bornholm. The annual climbing festival in August will be developed into an overall outdoor festival and as a great honour to us gets the name of the Geoquest climbing guide: Bornholm on the Rocks!
Björn Olausson in Boreboltsmassakren skand. 7- =UIAA 8
Furthermore there is a new bicycle path around the island's capital Roenne which touches the new climbing spot Klippeloekken vwhere we could help to establish new climbs.
Arne Olsen doing the first ascent of Muckibude skand. 6 = UIAA 7.
Additionally we have established two new boulder sectors at Ornebjergkysten. But one cannot be sure - these rocks are so nice that probably somebody has climbed there before.
With the guidebook we will be ready to dokument the development further on!
Bornholm on the Rocks- the guidebook brings you to the climbing spots of Bornholm.
Cleaning the start of the problem ...
... and doing the first ascent: Arne at a new Fb6a+-problem.
Last But not Least: our trip startet at the ferry port in Sassnitz. Just in front of it was a big boulder where we could do a bunch of really untertaining problems